Step into a Japanese izakaya and you’ll hear sizzling skewers, clinking glasses, and bursts of laughter. It’s relaxed, social, and often the most memorable meal of a trip—if you know how to navigate the small rituals. This guide walks you through the whole experience: getting a table, decoding the otoshi (table charge), ordering drinks and shared plates, finding English-friendly menus, and handling the bill without awkwardness.
- What is an izakaya?
- Before you go: types, smoking, reservations, payment
- Arrival and seating: how to get a table
- How to order: step-by-step
- Otoshi (table charge) explained
- Drinks 101 and drinking etiquette
- Food to order and how to share
- English-friendly menus and easy phrases
- Dietary needs and allergies
- Bill, splitting payment, and no-tipping culture
- Nomihodai and last orders
- FAQ
What is an izakaya?
An izakaya is a casual Japanese pub serving drinks and a wide range of small plates designed for sharing. Think of it as something between a bar and a neighborhood restaurant: lively, affordable to mid-range, and ideal for sampling plenty of flavors. You’ll find chain izakaya with big picture menus and electronic tablets, tiny counter-only spots run by a single chef, standing bars (tachinomi) with no seats, and genre-focused places like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), seafood, or oden (simmered dishes).
Expect energy. Staff may shout greetings, guests call out to order, and the soundtrack is sizzling grills and clinking glasses. If you can embrace the bustle, you’ll eat very well.
Before you go: types, smoking, reservations, and payment
Pick your style
- Big chains (often around stations) usually have picture menus, touch-screen ordering, English labels, and take cards. Good for first-timers.
- Yakitori and kushiyaki specialists focus on skewers. Ordering may be by the stick, sometimes with a minimum quantity per type.
- Seafood-focused izakaya shine with sashimi, grilled fish, and seasonal catches; menus may change daily.
- Tachinomi (standing bars) are great for a quick drink and a couple of plates. Often no table charge, and faster turnover.
- Neighborhood mom-and-pop spots can be fantastic value with a personal touch, but may be cash only and Japanese-only menus.
Smoking rules
Indoor smoking rules tightened nationwide in recent years. Many izakaya are now fully non-smoking or have designated smoking rooms. Some very small bars still allow smoking or operate as smoking venues. Look for signs at the entrance or ask: “Kinen desu ka?” (Is it non-smoking?) or “Kitsu-en desu ka?” (Is it smoking?). If smoke bothers you, chain izakaya and newer venues are safer bets.
Reservations and peak times
Weeknights around 6–9 pm can be packed, especially near business districts and train hubs. Chains often manage walk-ins quickly. Small counters can fill up as soon as doors open. If your heart is set on a tiny place, ask your hotel to call ahead or show up right at opening. For groups of four or more, reservations help—even at casual spots.
Cash, cards, and capacity to split bills
Many chains take major credit cards and contactless payments. Small, independent izakaya may be cash only. Carry some cash to be safe; convenience store ATMs (7-Eleven, Japan Post) usually accept foreign cards. Some shops prefer one person pays and friends settle up among themselves. If you must split at the register, say “Betsu-betsu de onegai shimasu” (separate checks, please), but be ready for a polite no, especially when it’s very busy.
Arrival and seating: how to get a table
- At the door: Staff will ask your group size: “Nan-mei sama?” Hold up fingers if you’re not comfortable speaking. If there’s a waitlist, they’ll take your name or ask you to write it. Roman letters are fine.
- Table types: Counter seats give you a view of the action and easier ordering; tables are good for groups; some older shops have tatami seating where shoes come off at the doorway or platform. If asked to remove shoes, place them neatly where indicated.
- Call buttons: Many tables have a small call button. Press it when you’re ready to order or need refills. If not, get attention by calling “Sumimasen!” (Excuse me!)—perfectly normal here.
- Oshibori: A wet hand towel arrives first. Use it for hands, not your face. Keep it nearby; staff may take it away at the end.
How to order: step-by-step
- Start with drinks: The first thing staff usually ask is your drink order. Many groups begin with “nama biru” (draft beer). Saying “Toriaezu, nama” (“For now, draft beer”) is a classic opener. Non-alcoholic options like oolong tea or soft drinks are fine—no pressure to drink alcohol.
- Pick a few quick bites: Skim the first pages for house specials or fast appetizers—edamame, pickles, potato salad, karaage (fried chicken), sashimi. Order 2–4 items to start; you can keep adding later.
- Order in waves: Izakaya food comes as it’s ready, not all at once. Order a few dishes, see what you like, then continue. Grilled skewers, fried items, and simmered dishes make a good mix.
- Re-order favorites: Loved something? Ask for another round: “Mou hitotsu onegai shimasu” (One more, please) or point to the dish on the menu and say “Kore mou ikko.”
- Ask for recommendations: “Osusume wa?” means “What do you recommend?” Staff will often point to seasonal fish or a popular house dish.
Don’t worry about getting the sequencing perfect. Izakaya are meant to be casual and flexible. If the menu has an English section or photos, you’re already halfway there.
Otoshi (table charge) explained
Many izakaya serve a small appetizer shortly after you sit—perhaps a few bites of simmered vegetables, marinated seafood, or a tiny salad. This is the otoshi (also called tsukidashi in parts of western Japan), and it usually comes with a per-person cover charge. You’ll see it listed as “お通し,” “突き出し,” or sometimes as a table charge on the bill.
- Is it optional? In most izakaya, it’s standard and not something you remove by refusing the dish. Some places will skip it if you ask clearly before sitting, but that’s the exception rather than the rule.
- How much is it? It varies by shop and location. Think of it as roughly the cost of a small appetizer per person.
- Where it doesn’t appear Tachinomi and some chain izakaya may skip the cover. Lunch service, when available, often doesn’t include an otoshi.
View it as part of the izakaya experience: a bite that tides you over while the kitchen gets going. If the dish conflicts with your dietary needs, let staff know as early as possible and ask if they can change it: “Arerugī ga arimasu. Otoshi wo kaeru koto wa dekimasu ka?” (I have an allergy. Can you change the otoshi?). Flexibility varies.
Drinks 101 and drinking etiquette
Common drinks to know
- Nama biru: Draft beer. A classic first order.
- Highball: Whisky and soda. Light and refreshing; very popular.
- Sours and chu-hai: Shochu (or vodka-like base) with soda and fruit flavors like lemon (remon), grapefruit, or oolong-tea high (“oolong-hai”).
- Nihonshu (sake): Ranges from dry to fruity. Served chilled, room temperature, or warm depending on style and season. If you’re new, ask staff for a balanced, easy-drinking option.
- Shochu: Distilled spirit (often barley, sweet potato, or rice). Served on the rocks, with water, or with hot water. Flavor varies by base.
- Non-alcoholic: Oolong tea, cola, ginger ale, non-alcoholic beer. Just say “Non-alcoholic, onegai shimasu.”
Etiquette that actually matters
- Wait for “kanpai”: It’s polite to wait for your companions’ drinks and toast “Kanpai!” before your first sip. If your drink arrives much later, no one will be offended if you start—just acknowledge with a smile when others toast.
- Pouring for others: In groups, people often refill each other’s glasses. It’s fine to pour for yourself in casual settings, but topping up a friend’s drink is a nice gesture.
- Two hands: When someone pours for you, lift your glass with one hand and support it with the other. It’s a small sign of thanks.
- Know your limit: Japan’s legal drinking age is 20. Staff may refuse service if someone appears underage or overly intoxicated. Public drunkenness isn’t celebrated outside the bar—you’re expected to get home without causing a scene.
Food to order and how to share
Izakaya menus are built for variety. Expect categories like “quick bites,” “grilled,” “fried,” “simmered,” “salads,” and “rice/noodles” to close the meal. You don’t need to map it out perfectly—order what looks good, then add more.
Classic crowd-pleasers
- Edamame: Warm, salted soybeans—great with the first drink.
- Potato salad: Japanese style, often with a little ham or egg; creamy and comforting.
- Karaage: Juicy fried chicken. Squeeze lemon if provided.
- Yakitori: Skewers of chicken thigh (momo), breast (mune), skin (kawa), meatballs (tsukune), and vegetables like shishito or negi (leek). Some places ask you to choose sauce (tare) or salt (shio).
- Sashimi: Assorted raw fish. Good shops highlight seasonal fish on a handwritten board.
- Agedashi tofu: Lightly fried tofu in dashi broth.
- Nasu dengaku: Grilled eggplant with miso glaze.
- Okonomiyaki or seafood pancakes in some regions and casual chains.
- Rice and noodles: Yakimeshi (fried rice), onigiri, ochazuke (tea over rice), or ramen/udon to finish.
How to share politely
- Use serving utensils: If serving spoons or tongs arrive, use them. If not, it’s common to turn your chopsticks around and use the clean ends to take from shared plates.
- Skewer etiquette: If skewers arrive one per person, don’t assume they’re shareable unless you’ve ordered enough for the table. Many places serve by the stick; order extras as needed.
- Sauces and condiments: Dip once. If you’re unsure about a shared sauce pot, ask for small plates: “Torizara wo onegai shimasu” (Please bring small plates).
English-friendly menus and easy phrases
Finding English or picture menus
- Look for tablets: Touch-screen tablets often include an English toggle. Check the top corner for a flag icon or “EN.”
- Picture-heavy menus: Chains typically have photos. Pointing is fine—confirm quantity with your fingers.
- Ask simply: “Eigo menu arimasu ka?” (Do you have an English menu?) If not, “Shashin no menu arimasu ka?” (Do you have a photo menu?)
- Daily specials: Handwritten boards may list the best items but can be Japanese-only. Ask “Osusume wa?” and staff will often point or describe in simple terms.
Useful phrases you’ll actually use
- Sumimasen! (Excuse me!/Over here!)
- Nama biru, futatsu onegai shimasu. (Two draft beers, please.)
- Kore wo hitotsu. (One of this, please.) [Point to the menu]
- Osusume wa? (What do you recommend?)
- Mou ikko/mou hitotsu. (One more.)
- Torizara wo kudasai. (Small sharing plates, please.)
- Okaikei onegai shimasu. (Check, please.)
- Betsu-betsu de dekimasu ka? (Can we pay separately?)
Phone translation apps are handy for menus but can mistranslate dish names. When in doubt, ask staff to describe basics—meat/fish/vegetable and cooking style is often enough to decide.
Dietary needs and allergies
Izakaya kitchens handle many ingredients in tight spaces. Clear communication helps, but flexibility varies by shop and how busy it is. Expect fewer guarantees than at specialized restaurants.
Common hurdles
- Fish stock (dashi): Ubiquitous in soups, sauces, and dressings—even for vegetable dishes. If you avoid fish, ask specifically.
- Pork and chicken: Appear in broths and as hidden garnish (bacon bits, chicken skin).
- Gluten: Soy sauce usually contains wheat; many fried items are coated in flour.
- Alcohol in cooking: Mirin and sake are common in marinades and sauces.
Helpful phrases
- Arerugī ga arimasu. (I have an allergy.)
- Watashi wa [ebii/peanatsu/guruten] ga taberaremasen. (I can’t eat [shrimp/peanuts/gluten].)
- Dashi (katsuo) wa dame desu. (No fish stock, please.)
- Butaniku wa taberaremasen. (I can’t eat pork.)
- Niku nashi de tsukuremasu ka? (Can you make it without meat?)
If the kitchen can’t accommodate, it’s not rudeness—just constraints. Consider chain izakaya with broader menus, or vegetarian-focused restaurants for stricter needs. For halal needs, many izakaya use alcohol in cooking and share fryers; a quick drink-and-snacks visit may still be enjoyable if you stick to packaged drinks, edamame, simple salads, grilled corn, or items you can confirm.
Bill, splitting payment, and no-tipping culture
- How the bill works: Some places keep a running tally with table tokens or marks on a sheet; others track via the tablet. The otoshi/table charge appears as a separate line per person.
- Asking for the check: Say “Okaikei onegai shimasu,” or press the call button. Many izakaya expect you to bring the bill to a front register rather than paying at the table.
- Splitting: If separate checks are possible, staff will say yes. If not, one person pays and you settle up after. For equal splits, “Wari-kan de” means to split evenly among the group.
- No tipping: There’s no tipping culture in Japan. Service charges may appear on the bill at some venues; otherwise, you simply pay the total.
- Receipts: Ask for a receipt if needed—“Ryōshūsho onegai shimasu.”
Nomihodai and last orders
Nomihodai means all-you-can-drink for a fixed time. You choose from a set list—often beer, highballs, sours, and soft drinks—and place new drink orders as you go. Time limits vary by shop; commonly around 90–120 minutes, with a final call before time’s up. Food is usually ordered separately unless it’s a set course.
- Pace yourself: Orders may be limited to one drink per person at a time. Expect a “last order” (L.O.) announcement near the end.
- Whole-table rule: Some places require everyone at the table to opt into nomihodai. Confirm before agreeing.
- Food last orders: Kitchens often close earlier than the bar. If you still want a hot dish near closing, order before L.O.
Small etiquette details that make the night smoother
- Noise level: Izakaya are lively. Calling “Sumimasen!” to order is normal. Don’t worry about whispering.
- Space: Tables can be tight; keep bags under the table or on hooks if provided. Backpacks off chairs during busy hours is appreciated.
- Chopsticks: Don’t stick them upright in a bowl or pass food chopstick-to-chopstick (both have funeral connotations). Use small plates as a staging area.
- Restrooms: Some places offer shared building facilities or require a key; ask “Toire wa doko desu ka?”
- Catching the last train: Trains wind down around midnight in most cities. If you rely on public transport, aim to leave before the last food/drink L.O. crunch.
Scenario playbook: what to say and do
1) The tiny counter with no English menu
You squeeze in at 6 pm. The chef hands you a handwritten board. Smile and say, “Osusume de, niku to yasai wo sukoshi zutsu” (Please recommend a little meat and vegetables). Order a draft beer or oolong tea. When the first plate lands, try it, then say, “Oishii! Kore mou hitotsu.” You’ve just built a meal without reading the menu.
2) The chain izakaya with a tablet
Tap the English flag, start with drinks, and order 3–4 dishes with photos. If you want to try sake but don’t know which, ask staff for “nihonshu, ama-kuchi? kara-kuchi?” (sweeter? drier?). Add more in small rounds. When finished, press “Check” on the tablet, then pay at the front.
3) The standing bar (tachinomi) on a tight schedule
Perfect when you’ve got 45 minutes before a show. Order a highball and two skewers, maybe a quick salad. No table charge is common, you pay when you close out or sometimes per item at the counter. It’s efficient and social—easy to chat with the staff.
FAQ
Is it rude to go to an izakaya if I don’t drink alcohol?
Not at all. Many guests order soft drinks or tea. Food is the main event for plenty of locals, especially on weeknights. If there’s a drink minimum or nomihodai requirement, staff will tell you up front—just ask before sitting.
Can I skip the otoshi or send it back?
Usually no. The otoshi is tied to the cover charge and is part of how izakaya operate. Some places will change it for allergies if they can; a few may waive it at lunch. If it’s a deal-breaker, look for tachinomi or chain spots that do not charge a cover.
How do I know if a place is tourist-friendly?
Large menus with photos, bright signage, and call buttons often signal easy ordering. If you see a tablet at the table or an “English menu available” sticker, you’re set. That said, many small places welcome visitors—just be patient and order gradually.
What’s a reasonable number of dishes to order?
For two people, start with 3–5 small plates, then add more. For four, start around 6–8 plates. Izakaya food is designed to come in waves—reordering is normal.
Do I need to tip the staff?
No tipping. A sincere “Arigatou gozaimashita” when you leave goes a long way.
Will they split the bill?
Sometimes. Ask “Betsu-betsu de dekimasu ka?” If they say no, one person pays and you settle up among yourselves. Some chains allow separate payments more easily, especially when it’s not crowded.
Is smoking still allowed?
Many izakaya are non-smoking or have smoking rooms, but some small bars still allow smoking. Check the entrance signs or ask: “Kinen desu ka?”
What’s with shouting when I walk in?
Staff often call out greetings like “Irasshaimase!” It’s normal. You don’t need to respond—smiling is enough—but a quiet “Konbanwa” (good evening) is appreciated.
How do I handle leftovers?
Take-away boxes aren’t standard at izakaya, especially for raw or fried items. Order in small rounds to avoid waste.
Checklist: smooth izakaya night for first-timers
- Choose a chain or picture-menu izakaya for your first try.
- Arrive on the early side of the dinner rush to avoid waits.
- Order drinks first, then 3–4 starter plates. Reorder gradually.
- Expect an otoshi cover and a small starter dish per person.
- Toast “Kanpai!” and share dishes using serving utensils or chopstick backs.
- Ask for recommendations and don’t be shy with “Sumimasen!”
- When finished, ask for the check and pay at the register; no tip needed.
You don’t need perfect Japanese or a deep knowledge of sake to love an izakaya. Bring curiosity, order in small waves, and let the room’s warm chaos carry you. It’s one of the easiest ways to taste everyday Japan—snacks, sips, and stories all around you.



