First-Time Izakaya Guide: Ordering, Otoshi, Nomihodai & Etiquette

Izakaya are Japan’s classic after-work hangouts: casual, lively places where you can graze on small plates while sipping beer, highballs, sake, or tea. They sit somewhere between a pub and a tapas bar. If it’s your first visit, a little know-how goes a long way—menus can be dense, rules aren’t always obvious, and some customs are unique. Here’s how to pick a spot, order like a local, understand charges such as otoshi and nomihodai, and keep your bill (and stress) under control.

How to choose an izakaya

You’ll spot izakaya by their warm lights, fabric curtains (noren) over the door, and often a red lantern. Menus are usually posted outside. You’ll find two broad types:

• Big chains (often with English menus, photos, touchscreens, and broad drink lists). They’re reliable for first-timers, with predictable pricing and less smoking. Branches are common near major train stations.
• Independent spots (cozier, sometimes specializing in one thing like yakitori, seafood, or oden). Menus might be handwritten in Japanese, and staff may not speak much English—great for atmosphere and seasonal dishes.

For a first night, choose somewhere with photos or a touchscreen, or look for a small place that seems busy with a mix of groups and solo diners. If you have a specific craving—grilled skewers, sashimi, or hotpot—scan the entrance posters for those keywords.

Reservations: In busy districts (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Dotonbori), places fill up fast from early evening. If you see “満席” (full) on a sign, try the next spot or return later. Many chains accept walk-ins. Small independent izakaya may only have counter seats.

Smoking: Since 2020, many restaurants are non-smoking. Some small bars still allow smoking if clearly signposted and usually only for adults. If you prefer not to be around smoke, ask for a non-smoking seat: “禁煙席ありますか？” (kinen seki arimasu ka?).

What happens when you walk in

Staff will usually greet you with “Irasshaimase!” and ask “何名様ですか？” (nan-mei sama desu ka? / How many people?). Hold up fingers or answer:

• “1人” (hitori) – one
• “2人” (futari) – two
• “3人” (san-nin) – three, and so on

You might be seated at a table, tatami mat (shoes off), or the counter facing the kitchen. Many places hand you a wet towel (oshibori)—use it for your hands only. You’ll also often get water or tea by default, or you can ask for water: “お水ください” (omizu kudasai).

Ordering systems vary: you might call a server with “すみません!” (sumimasen), press a call button on the table, use a tablet, or scan a QR code. If you prefer an English menu, try: “英語のメニューありますか？” (Eigo no menyū arimasu ka?).

How to order and read the menu

Izakaya dining is relaxed and shareable. Most groups order a first round of drinks and two or three quick bites, then add dishes as they go. Food arrives as it’s ready rather than all at once.

Starter strategy for first-timers

• First drinks: “生ビールひとつ” (nama bīru hitotsu / one draft beer) or a highball or soft drink.
• Quick bites: edamame, pickles (tsukemono), potato salad, or karaage (fried chicken). These land fast and keep everyone happy while you read deeper into the menu.

Menu clues

• 写真付き (photos) make life easy—point and say “これをください” (kore o kudasai / this, please).
• 今日のおすすめ (kyō no osusume / today’s recommendations) or a chalkboard list often hides the best seasonal items.
• Portion sizes vary. If unsure, start small and reorder. Izakaya expect rolling orders.
• “ハーフ” (half) means smaller portion; “大” (dai) means large; “串” (kushi) refers to skewers—some places require ordering skewers in pairs.

If there’s a touchscreen, you can usually switch language in the settings. On paper menus, look for categories such as 焼き物 (grilled), 揚げ物 (fried), 刺身 (sashimi), サラダ (salad), ご飯物 (rice dishes), and 〆 (shime / “closer,” the final carb like noodles or rice).

Otoshi (table charge) explained

Many izakaya add a small cover charge per person that comes with a tiny appetizer called otoshi (also called tsukidashi in Kansai). Think of it as a seat charge bundled with a snack—maybe simmered vegetables, pickles, or a bite of fish or tofu. It usually arrives without being ordered, soon after you sit down.

Two things to know:

• The charge and content vary by shop. Chains may skip it; independents typically include it. If you’re curious, ask on arrival: “お通しはありますか？いくらですか？” (Otoshi wa arimasu ka? Ikura desu ka? / Do you have an otoshi? How much?). Staff may give an approximate cost or point to the policy on the menu.
• Declining otoshi can be sensitive. Some places allow it if you speak up immediately; many treat it as standard. If you want to try, ask politely right away: “お通しなしにできますか？” (otoshi nashi ni dekimasu ka?). Be ready for a no.

Nomihodai and tabehodai

Nomihodai means all-you-can-drink for a set time (often around 90–120 minutes, but it varies). Tabehodai is all-you-can-eat. These plans are common for groups and are popular at chains.

Before saying yes, confirm the details—terms differ by venue:

• Duration and last order time (ラストオーダー). Drinks usually stop 15–30 minutes before the end.
• Entire table? Many require everyone at the table to join.
• What’s included: beer types, highballs, sours, soft drinks. Premium items may be excluded or cost extra.
• Food requirements: some require ordering a certain number of dishes per person alongside nomihodai.
• Waste rules: leaving full glasses may incur a penalty or refusal of further drinks.

Nomihodai can save money if you plan to have multiple drinks in a short window. If you’re a light drinker or want a relaxed pace, ordering a la carte is usually better.

Popular dishes to try (and how to order them)

Menus vary wildly, but these staples appear everywhere. Order one or two from each style and build from there.

• Edamame (枝豆): Salted green soybeans. Easy crowd-pleaser and a classic start.
• Karaage (唐揚げ): Juicy, marinated fried chicken. If you like lemon, ask for “レモン付きで” (with lemon).
• Yakitori (焼き鳥): Grilled chicken skewers. Two main flavors: shio (salt) or tare (sweet soy glaze). Cuts include momo (thigh), negima (thigh with leek), tsukune (meatball), tebasaki (wing), and sometimes organ meats if you’re adventurous.
• Sashimi (刺身): Fresh, sliced raw fish. Ask which fish are recommended today: “今日のおすすめの刺身は？”
• Agedashi tofu (揚げ出し豆腐): Deep-fried tofu in a light dashi broth—comforting and vegetarian-friendly if dashi is acceptable.
• Tamagoyaki (卵焼き): Sweet-savory rolled omelet. Great for kids, too.
• Grilled fish (焼き魚): Mackerel (鯖, saba), salmon belly (はらす), or hokke (ほっけ, Atka mackerel). Comes with grated daikon—add a splash of soy.
• Gyoza (餃子): Pan-fried dumplings. Often pork-based.
• Takowasa (たこわさ): Raw octopus with wasabi—small, punchy, and great with drinks.
• Japanese potato salad (ポテサラ): Creamy, sometimes with ham or egg. A classic izakaya side.
• Oden (おでん): Winter staple—gentle broth with radish, tofu, konjac, and fish cakes. Often ordered piece by piece from a hot pot at the counter.
• Yakisoba (焼きそば) or yakiudon (焼うどん): Stir-fried noodles, handy for a late-night “closer.”
• Onigiri (おにぎり) or yaki onigiri (grilled): Rice balls with fillings like salmon, pickled plum, or tuna mayo. Grilled versions come brushed with soy.
• Ochazuke (お茶漬け): Rice in hot tea or broth with toppings—light and soothing to finish.

Regional izakaya may highlight local specialties: Hokkaido seafood, Hiroshima oysters, Fukuoka mentaiko (spicy cod roe), or Okinawan pork dishes. If you want to lean local, ask: “この地域のおすすめはありますか？” (Are there local specialties?)

Beer, highballs, sake, and soft drinks

Drinks are half the izakaya fun. Here’s how to navigate the list without a deep dive into brewing science.

Beer

• Nama biru (生ビール) is draft beer. Sizes vary; if you see 中 (chū) that’s “medium,” 大 (dai) is larger. Bottled beer is 瓶ビール (bin bīru).
• Classic order: “生中ひとつ” (nama-chū hitotsu) or point to the size you want.

Highballs and sours

• Highball (ハイボール): Whisky and soda with lemon. Light and popular.
• Chu-hai or sour (サワー): Shochu-based, flavored with lemon, grapefruit, oolong tea, or seasonal fruit. “生レモンサワー” often includes a fresh lemon you squeeze yourself.

Sake (nihonshu) and shochu

• Nihonshu (日本酒): Often offered by the glass (グラス) or in a small flask (徳利, tokkuri). You might choose by style: 辛口 (karakuchi, drier) or 甘口 (amakuchi, sweeter). Temperature words: 冷や (hiya, chilled) or 熱燗 (atsukan, warm).
• Shochu (焼酎): Distilled spirit, commonly made from sweet potato (芋, imo), barley (麦, mugi), or rice (米, kome). Served on the rocks, with water, or with hot water. Imo tends to be more aromatic; mugi is lighter.

Non-alcoholic

• Soft drinks, non-alcoholic beer, and tea (ウーロン茶 oolong, 緑茶 green tea) are widely available. Ask for “ノンアル” (non-aru) options if you don’t drink.

Before that first sip, locals often wait for “乾杯!” (kanpai / cheers). Touch glasses lightly and drink together—it’s part of the ritual.

Simple izakaya etiquette (friendly, not fussy)

• Call the staff with a polite “すみません!” (sumimasen) or use the call button. Waving is fine; shouting isn’t necessary.
• Don’t rub wooden chopsticks together in nicer places—it implies they’re cheap. In casual chains it’s common, but still not ideal.
• Use your oshibori for hands only. Don’t wipe your face.
• Share plates are expected. If you need extra small plates, ask: “取り皿ください” (torizara kudasai).
• Skewer etiquette: When you finish yakitori, put the sticks in the provided cup or on a plate, not on the table.
• Don’t pour your own first in a group—pour for someone else, and they’ll return the favor. It’s a small, friendly gesture.
• Shoes off in tatami rooms. Step onto the raised floor in socks.
• Tipping isn’t expected. If you want to show appreciation, a simple “ごちそうさまでした” (gochisōsama deshita / “thanks for the meal”) as you leave is perfect.

Budgeting and money-saving tips

Costs vary by city, neighborhood, and the type of izakaya. Chains tend to be more standardized; small specialty places can be pricier for premium fish or meat. Menus sometimes list prices before tax; look for “税込” (tax-included) or “税別” (tax not included).

• Ballpark spend: Many travelers report paying roughly the cost of two to four small plates and two drinks per person at mainstream izakaya when not choosing nomihodai. Use that as a loose guide and adjust based on the menu.
• Otoshi awareness: If you’re counting coins, factor in a per-person cover charge where applicable. Ask up front if it’s a concern.
• Nomihodai value check: Worth it if you’ll have multiple drinks within the time limit. Confirm the inclusions so you don’t pay extra for a favorite that’s excluded.
• Start with staples and add a special or two. Specials can be pricier, but often worth it for seasonal fish and produce.
• Watch the clock: Many izakaya set time limits at peak hours. If there’s a time charge or table limit, it’s usually indicated at seating or on the menu. Ask if unsure.
• Cash vs cards: Large chains usually take cards and IC cards (Suica, Pasmo, ICOCA). Small spots might be cash-only. Keep some smaller bills for splitting.

Useful Japanese phrases that actually help

• “英語のメニューありますか？” (Eigo no menyū arimasu ka?) – Do you have an English menu?
• “おすすめは何ですか？” (Osusume wa nan desu ka?) – What do you recommend?
• “これを二つください” (Kore o futatsu kudasai) – Two of these, please. Replace with “ひとつ/みっつ” for one/three.
• “塩/たれでお願いします” (Shio/tare de onegaishimasu) – Salt/sauce, please (for skewers).
• “辛さはどのくらいですか？” (Karasa wa dono kurai desu ka?) – How spicy is it?
• “アレルギーがあります” (Arerugī ga arimasu) – I have an allergy. Add the item, e.g., “えびにアレルギーがあります” (I’m allergic to shrimp).
• “お冷ください” (Ohiya kudasai) or “お水ください” (Omizu kudasai) – Cold water, please.
• “取り皿をください” (Torizara o kudasai) – Small plates, please.
• “お会計お願いします” (Okaikei onegaishimasu) – Check, please.
• “別々でお願いします” (Betsu-betsu de onegaishimasu) – Separate checks, please. Or “割り勘で” (warikan de) – split the bill evenly.

How to pay and split the bill

You’ll either pay at the table or at the register near the entrance. Staff usually tell you, or there’s a symbol on the bill. If you stand to leave with your check in hand, they’ll guide you to the register.

• Check accuracy: Your bill lists each item or a category total. If something looks off, politely ask: “すみません、確認していただけますか？” (Excuse me, could you check?).
• Splitting: Many places can split evenly or by item. Even splits are faster at busy times. If you need separate totals, say “別々でお願いします.”
• Payment methods: Cards and IC cards are common at chains; QR code payments appear at some places. Independent shops may prefer cash.
• No tipping: Tax and any service charges are already included. A smile and “ごちそうさまでした” as you leave goes a long way.

With kids, dietary needs, and allergies

With kids: Family-friendly chains often have booth seating, non-smoking areas, and kid-friendly dishes like tamagoyaki, onigiri, fries, and karaage. Very small or late-night venues can be smoky or cramped; if that’s a concern, go early evening and choose a larger shop.

Vegetarian/vegan: Edamame, salads, pickles, grilled vegetables, and tofu dishes are good bets. Many sauces and soups use dashi (fish stock), even if the dish looks vegetarian. If you want to avoid fish stock, say “だし抜きでできますか？” (dashi nuki de dekimasu ka? / can it be made without dashi?). Some kitchens can accommodate; many can’t.

Halal/kosher/no-pork/no-alcohol: Most izakaya kitchens aren’t set up for strict dietary laws. Some sauces contain mirin/sake; frying oil may be shared. If avoidance rather than certification is your goal, ask about ingredients and choose plainly grilled items where possible.

Allergies: Communicate clearly at the start. A printed allergy card in Japanese helps. Sample: “○○のアレルギーがあります。除いて調理できますか？” (I’m allergic to ○○. Can you cook without it?). Common allergens include 卵 (egg), 乳 (dairy), 小麦 (wheat), そば (buckwheat), 甲殻類 (shellfish), and 落花生/ピーナッツ (peanuts). Cross-contact can be difficult to manage in compact kitchens; proceed according to your comfort level.

FAQ

Is there a minimum order?

Some izakaya expect at least one drink per person and a few dishes for the table, especially if it’s busy. Policies vary and are often unstated. If you plan to drink only water, check first or choose a café or diner instead.

Do all izakaya have otoshi?

No. Many independent izakaya do; some chains don’t. The fee and style differ by shop. If it matters to your budget, ask when seated or check the menu’s small print.

Is smoking allowed?

Many venues are non-smoking, but some small bars still allow it in designated spaces for adults. Look for signage or ask for a non-smoking seat.

Can I stay for hours?

It depends. During peak times, there may be a time limit or last order policy. If you plan a long catch-up, mention it when you’re seated or choose a larger chain that’s used to long stays.

How late are izakaya open?

Hours differ widely. In nightlife districts, many stay open late; in quieter areas, kitchens may close earlier. If you’re heading out after 9 p.m., chains and standing bars (立ち飲み, tachinomi) are a safe bet.

Do I have to take off my shoes?

Only in tatami rooms or private rooms with raised floors. Staff will indicate if needed. Use the shoe shelf or cubby; step onto tatami in socks.

What if I don’t drink alcohol?

No problem. Order soft drinks or tea. Many places have non-alcoholic beer or mocktails, and you can fully enjoy the food.

A simple first-visit game plan

Here’s a smooth flow you can copy on your first night:

1. Pick a busy-but-not-packed izakaya with photo menus or a touchscreen near a major station.
2. Say “2人です” (futari desu) for two people and follow to your seat. Use the oshibori to clean your hands.
3. Ask “英語のメニューありますか？” If not, use photos and point.
4. Order first round: one draft beer and one highball, plus edamame and karaage.
5. Scan the menu while you snack. Add two skewers per person (a mix of salt and sauce) and a salad or tofu dish.
6. Midway, decide on a “shime” closer: yaki onigiri or yakisoba. Order your last drink before the kitchen’s last order.
7. Ask for the check: “お会計お願いします.” Pay at the table or the register as indicated. Say “ごちそうさまでした” on the way out.

Extra tips to make it easier

• Photos are your friend: If there are no photos, open your map app’s photo section for the venue—diners often post dish shots you can show and point to.
• Handwritten boards: If you can’t read kanji, ask “読めないので、おすすめをお願いします” (I can’t read it—please recommend).
• Counter seats: Solo diners and couples often get counter spots with a front-row view of the grill. It’s easy to spot what looks good and just point.
• Standing bars (tachinomi): Great for a quick drink and one or two bites if you don’t want to commit to a long meal.
• Last train awareness: If you’re outside the hotel area, watch the time so you’re not sprinting for the last train.